Gravel Overnighter - all the adventure, none of the roughing it

Sometimes the best adventures start with a simple question: "Are you ready to ride?" For most of our crew of seven, the answer was an enthusiastic yes, despite having never bikepacked before. What we had planned was bikepacking without the burden – think remote beauty, hearty meals, and cozy beds. Essentially, all the adventure with none of the sleeping-on-the-ground.

Our mission was straightforward - 188km over two days, covering 75% on gravel, and conquering 2,563m of climbing through stunning New South Wales country. 

A week out, the excitement was permeating every conversation. Bags were scrutinised, packing lists debated, and tubeless setups checked. Some of the crew were still figuring out exactly what they'd signed up for, but the anticipation was building. We kept a close eye on the weather, but we were 100% committed, rain or shine. Our bookings were made and paid – there was no backing out now.

Our route was a condensed version of Omafiets' "Two Pub Tour," originally a three-day adventure. We shaved it down to two because, honestly, who has three days for 188km? The guide was simple: pack light since we had accommodation. Wear the same clothes on day two. Fresh socks? That was a luxury item.

Day 1: Windsor to Wollombi (133km)

The weather greeted us warmly as we left Sydney, but as we headed west by train, the cold bit into our bones. Talk of warm fires and good food kept spirits high. Jeff was laser-focused on the lemon-scented scones he'd spotted at Myrtle & Stone cafe. His alter ego, Lord Devonshire, had somehow found a way into his saddle bag, and there was no talking him down.

Surprisingly, warm weather met us in Windsor. Within a few kilometres, the views started looking and smelling like proper country and we were already soaking up the different scenery. At our coffee stop at Tractor 828, Sally was quickly regretting her warm fleece. "But you said I should only bring one set of riding clothes!" The changeable weather proved her wise choice in the end. 

After coffee, we hit what might be the loveliest stretch of road in NSW – River Road to Wiseman's Ferry. It’s waterskiing heaven, dotted with private clubs and scenery that makes you forget you're pushing hard on a bike. We have ridden this stretch of road on Longest Days and knew to keenly anticipate it.

Wiseman's Ferry brought us face-to-face with the breakfast burger of dreams. Jeff needed no time to decide, he didn't even glance at a menu. Maurice, wisely, went with our recommendations for the best breakfast burger around. No arguments there. Mid-meal, Jeff sought bush mechanic suggestions to resolve his dropping seat post and decided to put some stickers on it – this was never going to work, but we admired the optimism.

Having eaten well, Sean's general feeling was, "I feel like we should get in the car and go home after lunch." But the blue sky out the window was enough to get everyone smiling, despite the howling wind.

The official course wanted to take us over the hill on part of the Convict Trail, but consensus was to skip it and hunt for champagne gravel instead. Our detour took us the longer way around the hill, where the landscape transformed dramatically as we headed through St Alban’s Common, a familiar gravel destination for MC. [St Albans Common has been in use since 1824 when Governor Brisbane set aside 2,000 acres of land in the Macdonald Valley, north of St Albans on the Wollombi Road, for the use of local land owners who were allowed grazing rights on this land in compensation for the smallness of their blocks. The common is 2,567 acres , measuring almost ten kms in length and one km in width.] 

Ancient sandstone escarpments rose around us, weathered and telling stories thousands of years old. The roads wound through valleys past rock formations that seemed to defy gravity. We covered sections of "champagne gravel" and even added "velvet gravel" to our descriptive vocabulary. The road north of the Common led us through stands of scribbly gums and ironbarks, their trunks creating natural tunnels that filtered the light onto the road ahead.

Our detour added a few extra kilometres, turning day one into 133km, but every metre was worth it. As we crested hills, vast wilderness stretched to the horizon – ridge after ridge of untouched bushland that reminded us just how wild this country still is. Approaching Wollombi, Steve and Sean were already expressing excitement for a pale ale, and the decision was made for the Wollombi Tavern to be our first and priority stop.

We scored a warm table inside for beer and chips while Maurice got stuck talking to locals around the fire outside. An hour later, he was still there. "You rode from where?" was the conversation starter that led down many rabbit holes.

Wollombi itself is something special – a valley that time seems to have forgotten, ringed by the Yengo wilderness and steeped in history. The town sits in a perfect bowl of green, surrounded by rolling hills that shift from gold to deep green depending on the light. Convict-built stone buildings line the main street, and there's a timeless quality to the place.

Jeff proudly bought the last bottle of Judd's Juice. We told him that's what they say to everyone, but he wasn't having it. He promoted finishing the bottle tonight to save him carrying it all the way home. We shared some free party pies in a tactical move to justify a few more drinks. Sean burned himself on molten pie while Jeff claimed expertise and avoided them entirely.

Our home-cooked meal prepared for us by Myrtle & Stone was delectable. After a big day on gravel roads, the warm fire and shared feast felt like the perfect reward. Three courses and good company – what more could you want? After catching up on Stage 20 of the Tour, we were in bed early. Everyone slept well and stayed warm. A victorious day!

Day 2: Wollombi to Morisset (59km)

An early start for coffee and breakfast at Myrtle & Stone Cafe. As we were about to leave, Steve casually asked about borrowing chamois cream. "Sure, no problem. It's at the bottom of my saddle bag..." 

A hearty breakfast fueled us for the day, but the idea of leaving the warm cafe for the cold air outside made for a slow start. We discussed everyone’s preferred bidon potion and we were clearly good enough gravel companions for Frank to be comfortable enough to share that he was "addicted to electrolytes." 

After Laguna, we confronted a sign alerting us to the road being closed in 21 kms. Do we dare it or not? There hadn't been much drama in this ride yet, so I was keen to see what we'd encounter. We discussed what "closed" could mean – a closed road, no problem; a closed bridge, perhaps a challenge. We decided even a closed bridge wouldn't stop us.

Steve and Sally doubled back to Laguna to ask a local. It didn't take long for the General Store owner to realise they weren't from around here – innocent questions you can ask in Laguna but wouldn't dare try in Yagoona. The store owner laughed and said the sign was put there five years ago but no longer relevant. We were slightly disappointed that drama would elude us, but rolled on confidently.

We enjoyed glorious sections through the heart of the Watagans, where cattle-dotted valleys opened up to tremendous vistas. The contrast was stunning – dense mountain forest giving way to pastoral scenes that could have been lifted from a postcard.

Finally hitting bitumen on the eastern side of the range, everyone savoured the descent through massive eucalypts creating a canopy overhead. Dappled light danced on the road surface as we wound our way down, the air warming noticeably as we lost elevation. It became a quick, flowing finish that had us making good time and confident we could catch a reasonable train home.

The landscape opened up as we approached the coast – rolling hills softening into gentler country. A flat run to Cooranbong, but we didn't stop – we were so close to the end it seemed silly. Through bike tracks and single track, our route took us along an estuary from Lake Macquarie into Morisset. Threading between wetlands and waterways, someone had serious local knowledge to include these sections in the original route.

Frank had studied Morisset on Google Maps and knew exactly where the food was. Banh Mi rolls with fresh warm BBQ chicken hit the spot perfectly. Everyone was delighted to eat and then roll to the train station.

A two-hour express train back to Central led to the cyclist debate: ride home or catch the light rail from Central? We were split between those not embarrassed to catch the tram and those who were. We were quick to tell Graham, who we spotted on the Bourke St cycleway, exactly where Frank and some of the boys were – on that tram behind us!

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The verdict

What an introduction to bikepacking it was - that's how you spend a Monday! Two days of stunning country, challenging but rewarding riding, and the perfect blend of adventure and comfort. For our crew of mostly first-time bikepackers, it proved that you don't need to rough it to have an authentic gravel adventure.

The numbers:

• 7 riders

• 191.52kms 2523^m

• 2 National Parks (Yengo, Watagans)

• 0 punctures

• 2 trains

• 2 ferries

Keep your eyes peeled for the next MC Velo gravel adventure. Your legs might question you, but your soul will thank you.